Putting clean space between your board and the top of the wave at high speed. Not to be confused with simply jumping off the back of a wave (known as 'kicking out'), catching genuine air is an advanced, highly controlled manouvre that's dependent on excellent timing both to launch into and to land successfully
See 'air'
A symmetrical wave that breaks equally on both lefthand and righthand sides, forming that classic 'A' shape and giving the surfer a choice of directions (as well as the opportunity to 'backdoor' it)
Excessively aggressive water, or (of surfers) giving out a negative attitude
An old-school surfer yell of enthusiasm (e.g. when spotting the perfect wave approaching!)
Classic historical (late 19th century) Hawaiian style wooden board
Both 'hi' and 'bye' in Hawaiian - handy!
Stoked, buzzing - excited about the surf
Excited
Smaller waves
Acronym for the Association of Professional Surfing
Taking off behind the peak (or further down the shoulder) of a hollow wave and surf through the barrel to the opposite side
Entering a barrel from behind the section
A wave is said to have 'backed off' when it breaks early or hits a section of deeper water. The wave's gradient levels out and it loses white water, but backed off sections can often reform into steeper peaks again as they approach shallower areas towards the shore
Cutting another surfer off or going around them in a 'paddle battle', in order to jump ahead in the line-up. Considered very poor etiquette
Turning your back to the wave as you surf - heading left if your stance is regular (right foot to the back), or vice versa if your stance is 'goofy'
The reverse pull of a shore break retreating back out to sea; can create heavy mush, chop or foam if it collides with another incoming wave
To err on the side of caution by hopping off your board into the surf - a common tactic when about to wipe out, or when confronted by a huge wave while paddling out that looks too big to duckdive safely
Sand banks beneath the surface of the water that will greatly affect the surfability of beach breaks
A newbie/beginner, or just anyone who plain sucks at surfing
The famous 'tube' waves that become hollow as they're breaking, allowing surfers to ride through them
The science of depth measurement across different areas of an ocean or surf site
Surf breaks that come in over a sandy sea floor (see 'banks')
An idler - often with a penchant for surfing - who spends far too much time hanging about on the sand
People who habitually turn up without their own board, wax etc and instead try to borrow everything from other surfers
Someone not from the local area
A major surfing equipment and apparel manufacturer; also the Australian term for a swamp or watering hole
Throwback seal of approval!
The foam body of a basic surfboard before it's gussied up and finished
Water that's been churned up into an unsurfable mess by annoying shore winds
If you need help with this one, you're probably reading up on the wrong sport
Classic board shorts for surfing in warmer climates - lightweight, comfortable and quick-drying
Allowing the nose of the board to ride too high up by distributing your weight too far back
The aboriginal for waves further offshore that break over shallow reefs out in deeper waters
An offshore reef break that happens out over corals or rocks in deeper waters
Body boarders; surfers who don't stand up
A king among large waves; one or more breakers that comes in head and shoulders above the pack
See 'dude'
After dropping in and coming down off the face of a wave, a bottom turn is made at the base to set up your next move
Turning on a wave mid-ride; one of the first moves most surfers learn after they've mastered the basics of staying upright
A potentially dangerous situation a surfer can find themselves in when the surf is breaking further out than they're stationed; being stuck on the wrong side of the breaks
An overhead mass of water crashing down towards the opening of a barrel; not a very welcoime sight
One or more grooves carved into the underside of a board to encourage smooth flow of water and higher speed
Giving it some aggro on a wave; surfing with aggression and purpose
An unconvincing han five (see also 'hange ten) pulled off by standing safely back on the board but extenging one leg out towards the nose.
Inadverently waxing the underside of your board (seldom a great idea)
Great
Turbulent surface waters, usually due to stiff winds
Gross water pollution, especially of the fecal variety
A clean break is one that forms a single neat peak along the full length of a wave
One or more large waves that break unexpectedly early, taking waiting surfers out of the lineup
A wave is said to have 'closed out' when it breaks all along its line simultaneously, leaving little scope for lateral movement to stay on it
Chicken; frightened of the waves, especially bigger ones
A patterned effect seen in certain swell lines that resembles the classic ridged fabric
Stereotypical '60s surfer jargon, best hollered while cresting a huge wave and dropping in
Exciting surf conditions with good-sized waves
The absolute highest point of a wave as it gathers towards breaking
A technique used in walking forwards and backwards along a longboard
Completely switching surfing directions in one flawless manouvre - harder than it looks!
Waking up early to hit the surf
The actual standing platform of your board
What bellyboarders do, because they lack the skills to stand upright yet
A dent, nick or hole in a surfboard as a result of a wipeout or other accidental damage
An especially heavy wipeout
Any wave that clocks in at twice the height of the surfer attempting to ride it
Rough guesstimate of where a surfer will end up if he rides a wave in its current direction right to the end of its break
Getting up on top of a wave and starting to descend down the face; the first thing you'll generally look to do after standing
The act of barging in and catching a wave that someone's already riding. Like jumping the queue, but worse. A great way to make enemies
A lonboard surfing stance where one knee is resting on the deck
Dipping under an oncoming wave while paddling out if it's breaking too early (or looks too big to get around!)
Duuuuuuuuude
A wave that folds over in whole big chunks due to unfavourable conditions onshore, making it impossible to surf, is said to be 'dumping'
See 'dirty lickings'
A bumper sticker often spotted in Hawaii, paying tribute to legendary surfer Eddie Aikau and his willingness to attack waves others thought were too heavy
Only the single greatest surfing movie ever made, that's all
Multipurpose terms of enthusiasm, but most often used for amazing waves or a particuarly good surf session
Same as a 'turtle roll'
The surfable part of a wave, i.e. the unbroken part that rises up underneath the white water
Switching direction away from the break to follow the direction the wave is breaking in along its line
Flipping around 180 degrees on your board and riding back-to-front
Fin Control System; generally refers to a detachable fin that can be snapped on and off the board for travelling or easy mending
The distance travelled over a body of water by a given wind without changing direction; a key factor in wave formation
The stabilising rudder affixed to the rear underside of your board; stops it from sliding sideways
A nasty (but annoyingly common) gash caused by unplanned interaction with someone's board fins
Cutting across the top of the wave with your board fins as part of a sudden sharp turn
When the surf's firing, it's really up - nice breaks, great conditions
A stubbier, thicker board ideal for riding smaller waves
A heartbreaking absence of surfable waves. The WORST
Also known as swim fins
Staying high up on the shoulder and riding the crest of a wave as long as possible, before crashing down right on top of the break
Whitewater breakers that churn up a load of air and don't fully support the weight of the board
A board's foil refers to how streamlined its profile is; essentially the change in thickness ratio between nose and tail
The opposite of 'backside' - a surfing stance where you're positioned facing the wave, whichever direction you're moving in
Bubbles or fizz in the water left behind after a heavy break
Surfers who splash about in the water all day without actually making any serious inroads towards catching a wave
Surfers who splash about in the water all day without actually making any serious inroads towards catching a wave
Otherwise known as a 'minimal', this is a mid-length board ideal for those just learning the art
Slang term for the tunnel of breathable air that a surfer can momentarily get caught up in when a long keg wave rolls over
A female surfer of diminutive stature
See 'green room'
That sleek and sexy fibreglass surfboard finish
Clear, super clean waves that give the impression of being made of glass (due to having little foam or white water churn as they rise)
Hardcore surfing conditions, generally considered dangerous even for experienced riders
The opposite stance to 'regular'; i.e. right foot towards the nose of the board
A diss term generally aimed at lesser wave riders, especially kayakers
See 'firing'
The inner chamber of a big breaker; the hollow or barrel
A newbie
Pot-bellied gentlemen surfers in their autumn years
A less extreme version of 'eating it'
Renowned UK-based manufacturer of surfing gear
A specially modified board designed primarily for attacking huge waves
A female surfer
Surfing in your birthday suit
Like a hang ten, where the toes extend over the nose of the board, but facing backwards
Famed old-school surfer hand gesture - see 'shaka'
Surfing on a longboard with both feet planted firmly towards the nose end
What a Hawaiian might refer to you as if you're not from around his 'hood
A tried and tested metric for wave measurement practiced in Hawaii
(Of waves) meaning gnarly
The earlier qualifying rounds of a surf contest
Advanced take on the aerial launch that involves some additional arm work to imitate a bird in flight
Somebody being a pain in the butt around other people trying to surf (generally a non-surfer)
See 'locked in'; a two-wave hold down can feel like it lasts about 15 minutes
Waves with a 'green room'; tubes
Aka a 'double-up'; a deceptive wave formation where a single large swell almost splits and thus has two peaks in quick succession
Right where you don't want to be when a big wave breaks - it's duckdive time!
Bobbing around in the froth left behind afer a heavy break
Indonesia, famed nation of some truly epic surf locations
The general vicinity of the impact zone; closer to the shore than the lineup. A frustraing (and potentially dangerous) place to be caught
Another well-regarded surfing apparel label
An extreme form of 'shoaling' caused by very sudden drops in water depth with a powerful swell; wave heights can suddenly rocket up dramatically with little warning
Epic South African surf spot
A surfer who only tackles easy or boring waves, or who lacks finesse to a troubling degree
A surfing don; a wizard of the waves
Yet another synonym for those glorious hollows and barrels
A manouvre often seen at the end of a ride when the surfer cuts back over a breaking wave
Ridiculously technical move lifted from skate culture - literally flipping the board through 360 degrees while catching air, and landing to complete the ride
The slightly less upright version of surfing, using a special board
A measurement of speed across water; one knot equals one nautical mile per hour
An awkward newbie, and a poser to boot. Generally reserved for those who disregard etiquette and get everyone's backs up. Not who you want to be
Serious 'look at me!' move that involves literally reclining on the wave while riding. You won't be doing it on your first run out
The length of light cord that tethers the surfer to their board
The length of light cord that tethers the surfer to their board
A break direction moving from right to left as the surfer sees it (heading in to shore)
Same as 'leash'
Short for 'leg rope'
The general zone where surfers congregate waiting to catch the wave, a little further out from the breaks
Same general concept as 'corduroy'
The very outermost surfable edge of a breaking wave; the last part of it that hasn't yet broken
When surfers from a particular area claim a wave-riding hotspot as their own, and guard it jealously
A surfer caught inside the spin cycle of a breaking wave and unable to surface
Classic elongated board type, typically with a more blunt or rounded-off nose
Eaxactly what it sounds like - a break in the action due to a sudden calming of the surf
See 'heavy'
See 'longboard'
California surf hotspot infamous for some particularly huge and gnarly waves
Generic term for any and all sharks spotted around a surf site
Unpredictable and difficult surf characterised by irregular break patterns and lots of churn/froth
Mark Richards, old-school Aussie surf champ and all-round legend of the waves
Absolutely epic/gnarly wipeout
Slow, draggy, foamy waves that are difficult to surf and/or don't offer a very exciting run
'Firing' breakers spotted a long way offshore
Derogatory term for a surfer who just can't keep their mouth shut about a little-known local hotspot that's supposed to be an open secret
Another famed Australian riding hotspot off Sydney's north shore
A modern emerging surfing discipine chiefly concerned with showy tricks and techy manouvres
Excessive limb weakness brought on by accumulated fatigue, especially after a long or hard swim
See 'men in grey suits'
The front-facing tip of the board when you're facing/riding in the 'right' direction
Rubber padding added to the front end of a board with the intention of reducing potential injury to the surfer or other water users
Effectively a more protracted version of the 'hang ten'; typically only really possible on a longboard
Abbreviation of 'golden nugget' - a great wave; a 'bomb' or a really clean, glassy tube
Big wet thing in front of the beach
Wind blowing out to sea from the beach towards the breaks; likely to result in the best surfing conditions
See 'firing'
A sharp or carving turn executed right up at the peak of a big wave
The opposite wind direction to 'offshore' - often spoils a good session by ironing out the surf
Further out to sea, way past the break line
The overall profile of a particular surfboard when viewed from above
A break zone further out that anticipated, beyond the line-up; most often used as a warning that you'll need to move out to it
Any wave taller from base to lip than a standing surfer
Going through the washing machine; a wipeout in which the wave lifts you back up its face and spits you out over the top again. Not our favourite
When two or more surfers are both heading for the same wave opening, hoping to make it to the curl first and thus gain priority
A less intrepid surfer who prefers the relative safety of the shallows
A less intrepid surfer who prefers the relative safety of the shallows
A miniature bodyboard
A completely clean competition run; a perfect ride
Getting the nose of your board stuck down in the water at the top of the wave, just as you start to drop towards the face, and going 'over the handlebars'
The most archetypal surfing wave of them all: the classic Hawaiian long, rolling barrel
See 'hollow'; see also 'impact zone' (can be used for either)
Riding in the 'green room' or 'glass house'
The top of the wave right above the break, just behind the lip; the part of the wave that generates the most force
Favourable surving waves caused by the presence of an underlying rocky outcrop offshore
See 'green room'
A cheap-and-cheerful machined board that's churned out by the factory-load
The transition from lying prone on the board to full standing position; the start of a ride
The order of the line-up; who has right of way on a given wave
Cutting back up the face of a wave slightly to enter a barrel
(Of waves) see 'firing'; (of a surfer) executing a manouvre that aims to increase speed midway through a ride
Executing an aerial maneuver
A jetski (acronym for Personal Water Craft)
One of the biggest names in surf clothing and equipment
A newbie, especially one who causes headaches and hassles for more experienced surfers
Your board collection in storage; the equivalent of a multi-car garage for pistonheads
Nailing a ride; taking risks and getting away with it in style
Ragdolling is what happens to you when you're being worked under a heavy wave; you're basically a big tangle of limbs
The sides of your board; can be either rounded and bulky for better buoyancy, or sharper and narrower for increased turn control
When a wipeout results in the board's rails bucking up and whacking you in a sensitive area
What happens when you're paddling out and get caught by a series of heavy breaks
Skin-tight garment worn under a wetsuit to prevent chafing
Dropping on to the lip of the wave as if to ride down the face, but then digging out a sharp turn and getting back on top of it
Breaking wave formations over coral beds or sharp rocks, often in slightly deeper waters
Wave force rebounding off a hard surface back against the direction of its travel
What happens when a swell reaches shallow enough waters for the wave properties to be heavily impacted by the sea bed
A surf session held in poor conditions; a labour of love despite its limited value
Standard surfing stance (left foot nearest the nose of the board)
To be 'rad'
An strong current that carries water (and anyone in it) away from the shore
Clambering over slippery or sharp rocks to get in or out of the surf
The convex underbelly of the surfboard; the curved underside between nose and tail
One-off open-water waves that are grossly outsized in relation to prevailing conditions
A particularly impressive lip spray during a hard slice
An advanced manouvre in which the surfer digs in and whips the board around a full 180 degrees to re-enter the white water from the wave breaking behind them
Surfers Against Sewage
Any item to hand - purpose-made or otherwise - that's successfully used to scrape the old wax off a board before rewaxing
Any areas of a breaking wave that offer a rideable route down or along it
A series of waves of similar size
A group of successive 'bombs'
A widely recognised and parodied hand gesture beloved of old-school surfers, a bit like the universal sign for a phone
A board designer-maker
The effect on swells of reaching shallower waters that causes wave heights to increase
A high-tide condition where heavy breaks right along the shoreline can trap surfers in a shallow 'washing machine', leading to a serious 'mullering'
A reduced-length surfboard often used by beginners
A cut-down wetsuit, often without limb coverings
The powerful top part of a wave that has yet to break; where you want to spend a little time before the drop, ideally
A derogatory term for a surfer who takes off on the shoulder of a wave rather than waiting until they're in the pocket, and as such can't see who else might already be riding below them. See also 'dropping in'
Waves that make it all the way into the shallows before rolling over and breaking, meaning you can theoretically ride them all the way to dry land
A classic wannabe; head to toe surf gear but probably never even got their feet wet
See 'rad'
Riding a wave down at a perpendicular angle to where the board's actually pointed
Unimpressive technique; lack of style or flair
A type of fin located towards the central rear of the board, designed to improve directional response
A heavy reef break that rolls into very shallow water from much further out
Whipping into a sharp turn at the lip of a wave that sends up a satisfying (and cool as hell) spray of foam
Surf legend, sometime Baywatch actor and all-round solid dude
See 'Pope's living room'
Heading back up the face of a wave to the lip after riding it down and executing a bottom turn
See 'dropping in'
A sudden switch of direction executed at the top of the wave
Posturing stance with an arched back while riding, intended to convey casual bravado
A popular term for dissing a bodyboarder
The blast of foam spray that's blasted from the open end of a collapsing tube
See 'bodyboarder'
Causing additional drag in the water, either by digging the tail of the board lower or using a trailing hand, to allow a barrel to catch you back up
Another famed California surf site
Epic surf video by Dana Brown, one of the true masters of getting this stuff on tape
A surfboard
Excited, thrilled
One or more lengths of wood or carbon fibre running through the body of your surfboard like a spine (and performing a not dissimilar role)
Eerie effect whereby a dry seabed is exposed momentarily due to the power of huge breakers sucking water back
Acronym for Stand Up Paddleboard
Major politically active conservation and surfer protection lobby group based in the UK
Telltale bumps, knocks and callouses on the feet and knees caused by years spent widing waves; the surfing equivalent of tennis elbow or housemaid's knee
It's 'firing'!
A heavy swell coming in from deep to shallow waters too fast to achieve a proper break
A particular shape of surfboard tail with a central cutaway
Proper, solid, nicely rideable waves
An incoming mass of water pushed towards land by storms out over deeper ocean; becomes a series of large breakers when it reaches the shallows
Surfing in the opposite stance to what comes most naturally, be that goofy or regular
The rear end of your surfboard, opposite to the nose
Dragging the rear of your surf board laterally across the top of a wave with the nose raised up
Two's company, baby
The moments during and immediately after popup; the opening phase of a ride
A significant tidal wave within a river system, only occuring under quite specific conditions
The effect sometimes seen when a surfer is locked in and trying to climb the leash back to their board, which bobs or 'tombstones' at the surface
The practice (primarily in big wave surfing) of using a jetski to pull surfers out to the gnarliest breaks in deeper waters
Common shorthand for a three-finned (TriFin) sufboard
Aka a deck grip or riser pad - a permanent addition to the deck of the board that performs the same basic role as board wax
Holding a nice firm line at the perfect angle as you ride a wave down
The lowest part of a wave formation, often below the general surface level of the surrounding ocean
See 'barrel' or 'keg'
Seriously '80s alternative to 'awesome'
The longboarder version of the shortboarder's 'duckdive' - an effective way of getting out beyond the breaks to the lineup
One fin shy of a thruster
Prime surf site in 'Indo'
Where you are when the wet stuff is above you
Pacific island wave-riding hotspot
A surfing woman
What it feels like when you're locked in under a gnarly breaker and being mullered
When both sides of a wave collapse inward, rather than forming a nice curl, it can leave surfers with no convenient place to drop in - this is sometimes known as a 'wally' (because it resembles a solid wall of water)
The measurement, typically in feet, of a wave's tallness from trough to crest
The measurement in time between the crest of one wave and the next
The physical distance, typically in feet, between the crests of one wave and the next
A series of 'sets'; multiple incoming swells of a fairly consistent wavelength
The fragrant tacky stuff we rub onto our boards, both to protect the finish and to help stop us sliding straight off into the swell
An especially steep-faced wave with a sheer front profile
A cold-repelling neoprene bodystocking that leaves little to the imagination but works wonders in chillier waters
Bracing oneself against particularly cold waters by urinating in the wetsuit you're wearing; not thought to do the materials any favours in the long run
The turbulent, foaming mass of air bubbles and water caused by powerful churn as a wave starts to break
Any swell created directly by winds in the local area (as opposed to far out to sea)
What happens when you mess up and take a spill. If it's a particularly bad one, see 'mullering'
To be worked over, 'mullering'; often goes hand in hand with a wipeout, especially if you get 'locked in'
Any of the various thrill-seeking, high-risk categories of riding (big wave surfing etc)
A leading maker of traction pad board add-ons
A favoured destination of Western Australian wave hunters
One of the more popular brands of surf wax out there
A high-end type of wetsuit that offers even better insulation